La tapisserie de Bayeux est brodée à l'aide de deux points : le point de tige et le point de Bayeux, appelé aussi point viking. Ce dernier est une sorte de couchage à deux niveaux. Il illustre donc tout à fait le point du TAST de cette semaine.
The Bayeux tapestry is embroidered with two stitchs: stem stitch and Bayeux stitch, also known as the Viking stitch. This latter is a kind of two levels couching stitch. It therefore illustrates exactly the point of this week's TAST.
The Bayeux tapestry is embroidered with two stitchs: stem stitch and Bayeux stitch, also known as the Viking stitch. This latter is a kind of two levels couching stitch. It therefore illustrates exactly the point of this week's TAST.
On commence par entourer la surface à broder à l'aide d'un point de tige. Pour fixer le fil, on fait deux ou trois petits points en avant et on pique en arrière entre les deux derniers trous d'aiguille, comme ça on traverse le fil en dessous.
We first surround the surface using a stem stitch. To start the thread, we made two or three small stitch and another back between the last two needle holes, so it crosses the thread under the fabric.
We first surround the surface using a stem stitch. To start the thread, we made two or three small stitch and another back between the last two needle holes, so it crosses the thread under the fabric.
Then we fill the area with a satin stitch, in the direction of the greater length of the surface.
The length should not exceed 4 or 5 cm (2 inches). Otherwise, we have to work by juxtaposed strips.This is also what it is done when the surface is curved. I do not have pictures yet, but I'll show you when I get this kind of embroidery area.
Evidemment, à l'époque, il n'était pas question de gaspiller de la laine en retraversant tout l'envers de la broderie, comme on le fait parfois de nos jour au point lancé. On ressort donc juste à côté du point précédent.
Obviously, at the time, there was no question of wasting wool so the thread have to return to the top close to the previous needle hole (sorry for my poor english).
Obviously, at the time, there was no question of wasting wool so the thread have to return to the top close to the previous needle hole (sorry for my poor english).
We continue until the area is filling, trying to make parallel stitchs.
Next, we stitch over the satin stitch a "barrette", ie a transverse line used to maintain the previous stitch. This is the first level couching.
Ces barrettes sont elle-mêmes maintenues par des picots brodés au fur-et-à-mesure (une barrette, des picots, une barette, des picots...), ce qui forme le second niveau de couchage.
These strips are themselves held by "picots" embroidered as-to-measure. This is the second level couching.
The "picots" should be staggered, to avoid to separate the threads above. A few irregularity may be a good thing, if you want to do like the original embroidery.
Bon allez, je vous montre le dos, même s'il n'est pas très propre.
Ok, I show you the back, but it is not very clean.
This stitch in three stages produces a interesting surface. In addition, the embroidery is well fixed to the fabric. I think that originally, this stitch had to be used to embroider on moving things, such as clothes, for example.
Et enfin, comme toujours, la participation de Pauline au TAST :
And to closed this message, Pauline's work :
And to closed this message, Pauline's work :
J'aime beaucoup que vous expliquez les points et la proces, a la meme fois que vous nous rappelez (?) l'histoire du travail (oeuvre?) que vous faites avec tel expertise! merci, merci.
RépondreSupprimerEt Pauline: ta broderie est belle! bravo.
What a wonderful example! Your work is beautiful.I need to try bayeux stitch - at least once.
RépondreSupprimerThankyou for visiting my blog.
this is very interesting and not something that i've seen before. thank you for sharing such great details in how to do it and how it looks.
RépondreSupprimerthe small heart is so very sweet.
:-)
libbyQ
This is very interesting. The instructions are clear and the result stunning. Thank you for giving us such a tutorial.
RépondreSupprimerIt is so interesting to follow your blog and your explanations, Isabelle! Thank you so much for sharing. I can learn so much here! I love Pauline's heart! Magnifique!
RépondreSupprimerAmazing stitching!
RépondreSupprimerWhat an interesting variation. Thanks for sharing.
RépondreSupprimeri was so impressed with this tutorial that i've included a link from my blog to yours on my TAST post for couching.
RépondreSupprimer:-)
libbyQ
Very beautiful..nice way of couching!!
RépondreSupprimerI had no idea these were the stitches used on the Bayeux Tapestry. Your piece looks wonderful! Thank you for the great tutorial.
RépondreSupprimerthank you for showing us this wonderful stitch!
RépondreSupprimersuch beautiful work!
don't worry about your English we can understand you wonderfully well and your English is soo much better than my French!)
Ah là là....la broderie de Bayeux...voilà qui est dans mes projets proches puisque j'ai investi dans mes laines lors de l'AEF...
RépondreSupprimerBravo pour ton travail superbe!
Un bravo tout spécial à Pauline, qui m'impressionne à chaque fois avec ses réalisations!
Merci pour la leçon de tapisserie ! je ne suis pas sûre d'en savoir assez pour me lancer, mais les photos des différentes étapes sont très parlantes :D
RépondreSupprimerThank you so much. You explained this very well. And your English was fine, I understood exactly what you meant.
RépondreSupprimerAislinn
Thank you very much for your very useful instructions. The best I have found to help me start a Bayeux Tapestry project. Your embroidery is also first class.
RépondreSupprimerYour explanation of the Bayeux stitch is most helpful. Alan
Vos explications sont faciles a mettre à exécution...merci beaucoup. Votre travail est magnifique. J'avais commencé aussi une Tapisserie de Bayeux il y a qq années et je souhaitais la reprendre et la finaliser..c'est parfait !
RépondreSupprimer